Favorite cloth mill and type of fabric and the reasons why?
I don’t have a favourite mill. As I specialize in Overcoats I love working with tweeds, flannels, plaids, twills… strong and enduring material.
I love working with the robust materials as you can give a lot of shape by intensive heavy ironing and define the design with very few, very clear and strong lines .
Favorite suit cut and the reasons why?
Personally – without a special term: single breasted, 2 buttons, low waist, high cut armscyes, tight fitting collar, side slits up to the waist, military cut sleeves
But when I think about the cut, I consider more of what fits to the customer: when they look good, they look good.
Maybe there is a difference to english bespoke tailoring, there are not so many house-styles or dressing-rules, germans are more pragmatic in their suitbehaviour I guess. More like “one suit must fit it all”.
Here bespoke tailoring is mostly either associated with the conservative establishment or it’s considered dusty and old, over- correct and boring. It’s really time to change that. The dandy/ dapper culture in Germany is just starting to awake, also among younger people. It is not comparable to England or Italy, where the people are way more familiar with bespoke tailoring.
In my philosophy the design/ the cut always depends on the personality of the customer. I don’t see the point in making suits following strict/ traditional styling rules when the customer feels uncomfortably dressed up/ costumed and in the end never wears the suit because he doesn’t feel authentic. We all have enough throw-away-clothes.
What fabric weight would you recommend for year-round suit?
A medium heavy quality. Summer is short and when you wear a suit you will be sweating anyway.
Do you recommend silk or bemberg lining to your clients?
That depends of the quality of the material and the choice of the customer.
Do you recommend full or half lining for a suit?
Always full lining.
Do you recommend full or half lining for a sport jacket?
Always full lining.
Do you recommend a lining back or self-same fabric on a gilet of a 3-piece suit?
I recommend a lining back: the lining is a very private part of the suit because only the wearer sees it. So when you take off the jacket and show some of the normally (and in official/ formal situations) not seen, you communicate openness and familiarity, there is less distance. And functionally seen it’s less warm under the jacket.
Favorite type of buttons for a suit?
Hornknöpfe
Favorite type of buttons for a sport jacket?
Ho opinion
Favorite type of buttons for an overcoat?
Horn!
On average, how long does it take to complete a bespoke three piece suit and how many fittings does it require?
About 70-80 hours, I work with 3 fittings
On average, how long does it take to complete a bespoke sport jacket and how many fittings does it require?
About 40 hours, 3 fittings
On average, how long does it take to complete a bespoke overcoat and how many fittings does it require?
60 hours, i work with 3 fittings
Photo by Sebastian Hilgetag – sebastianhilgetag.com
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